Hey! This film has been waiting a long time to be seen. When I made it I didn't have a Super 8 projector that wouldn't eat the film as it played, and now I do! Only £5 as well. But here it is; Rurbanural, my first Super 8 film. Due to time restraints I was forced to develop it in the bath by hand. Long story short, the chemicals were too cold and it came out black. I put it in bleach to take off layers of emulsion till I got down to the blue one, and this is the result.

My first successful roll of 120 shot in my Holga.True, I have shot one roll before, but what hapened in the darkroom, shall forever stay in the darkroom.

 

 

 

 

 

I was stumbling around the inter-webs and came across the work of the Romanian photographer Rares Cuciureanu. His photos on this page have a beautiful archival quality about them, and I just wanted to share them with you.

via 2photo.ru

JPG Magazine

Wouldn't we all love to shoot 120 on a Hasselblad or Rolleiflef all the time? No? Well be that way (darn Internet folk, tsk).

OK, so you probably like the look of medium format, but don't want the hassle of 12 shots per roll and getting it developed at extortionate prices. I have done this little tutorial to show you how to do it in Photoshop. If anyone feels like making an action, go ahead, just drop me a comment.

Here is a real 120 photograph taken on HP5+ 400 in a Ensign Ful-Vue:

 

And here is my fake one taken on a Nikon D60:

 

Great! Let's get started!

Step 1: Open your chosen image and crop it into a square. Using the shift key and the crop tool will let you get a perfect square.

Step 2: Make it black and white. You can do Cmd+Shit+U (mac) or Ctrl+Shift+U (pc), but the best method that will keep the most data (and result in better results) is to create a new layer (1), then go Edit> Fill... (2). This will pop up a little box, (3), choose 50% gray and OK it. Set the transfer mode to Colour (4).

 

Step 3: Select the gray layer and press Cmd+J (Ctrl+J) and set the transfer mode to Normal. You then want to go to Filter>Noise>Add Noise... and check Gaussian and Monochromatic. Play with the amount until it looks good and OK it.

 

Step 4: Set the transfer mode of this noise layer to Overlay and mess with the Fill Opacity until it's not too overpowering no un-noticeable.

 

Step 5: Here's another little trick... click the little menu icon in the corner of the Layers palette and Option (Alt) click Flatten Image. This creates a copy of the document and flattens it to one layer at the top. This way you still have all the editable layers underneath. Clever huh!?. Don't forget to use the Option/Alt key, though!

 

Step 6: Remember creating the 50% gray layer, do the same again but this time choose black. Move it underneath the top (flattened) layer. Select the flattened image and press Cmd(Ctrl)+T and drag one of the corner pins in towards to centre whilst holding down the Shift and Option/Alt keys. You want to create a border like the one on the original photo.

 

Step 7: For the black layer I added a bit of dark gray in the bottom right and an over exposed edge. The gray is easy, but to get the edges, I played with different settings for the brushes, using textures, etc... if you play, you'll find a way that works for you. Do this on a separate layer to the black.

 

Step 8: The image is still a bit clean, select its layer and press Cmd/Ctrl+J which will duplicate it. The the Gausian Blur form the Filter>Blur menu on to make it so the borders are just a bit softer. Add a layer mask (click the little circle in a rectangle at the bottom of the layers palette) click the newly created mask and a black border should form around it, paint black over the middle of the image (where it doesn't want to be blurred). Hold down the Option/Alt key and drag the mask to the other layer. Select the bottom mask and hit Cmd/Ctrl+I and hey presto, blurred edges and a hard centre.

 

Step 9: Add the stock info text in the font Futura (for Ilford film at least). To get the little arrows, you can use a font like Wingdings 3 and use Photoshop's text options to stretch the arrow out. Select the text and both images and rotate them slightly.

 

Step 10: For added authenticity, add a new layer and use the single pixel column Marquee tool and fill a few lines with white.

 

Step 11: Now play around with brushes, using the eraser this time. to get a scratch like result. Finally set the transfer mode to Add and drop the Fill Opacity until it looks awesome.

 

Et voila! Fin! If you like post a like to your results in the new-fangled comment system.

 

A photograph by Margaret Bourke-White.

 

Whilst stumbling around photography websites, I came across a site with some of the best locations found on Google Maps all turned into fantastic-looking wallpapers! The site was created by Austrtailan photographer, Ashley Ringrose (I think), who is part of the Australian inteactive agancy, Soap Creative. There's the link.